The secret's out – find the hidden bar in the heart of the city.
Busy Piccadilly Circus is not blessed with an abundance of great drinking hangouts. The pubs are usually packed to overflowing, and the bar life is mostly cavernous spaces catering to lairy twentysomethings on a night out.
Otherwise there is a good hotel bar or two in Mayfair; Jack Solomons is a former secret speakeasy which has now, somewhat disappointingly for those who like to feel in the know, erected prominent signage and filled the former “shop front” with a bar and tables; and another good tip is the under-attended Icon bar at the Empire casino, with a thrilling balcony overlooking Leicester Square.
But now there is a new hot spot – or should that be cool place? Because one of the advantages of Apples & Pears is that it’s in an area of low footfall, and not (yet) too packed.
Named after the Cockney rhyming slang for “stairs”, Apple & Pears is the upstairs sister to Jason Atherton’s hip new Sael restaurant. Even the locale is new: St James Market, just off Piccadilly Circus, is now a little pedestrianised haven of bars and restaurants.
The Apples & Bears bar is the inner sanctum. The lighting is dim, the furniture soft, with plenty of plush banquettes including a statement circular one in the centre topped with a sculpture that looks like candy. The windows are frosted in a way that makes it look like it’s permanently raining outside. And, you are snug within.
The playlist amps up the hip-Brit factor we’ve come to associate with Jason Atherton. Blur and Oasis, The Stones and Squeeze, T. Rex and The Kooks, several Bowie tracks. Freddie Mercury, Vivienne Westwood and Johnny Rotten stare down at us from framed prints. On Friday and Saturday nights, there’s a DJ.
And what of the cocktails? The signature cocktails include Apples & Pears served with apple, pear, pisco and vokda. The unexpected combinations include Fig and Mushroom, Pumpkin and Mandarin, and Sticky Toffee and Coffee.
The festive-sounding Mince Pie and Apple (Old Fashioned) didn’t taste much of mince pie. That's no bad thing, but there was a delightful lattice maple leaf in chocolate on top. Pistachio & Cacao (Negroni), recommended by our server, was more successful, and topped with a gorgeous rich cherry.
My companion had two fruity and refreshing concoctions.
On the whole, I’d describe the drinks as solid, but the main draw here is the vibe. It has all the ingredients for a fabulously louche late night.
GO: Visit https://www.saellondon.com for more information.