Simple and sleek, the venue lets the food take centre stage.
When you say British ingredients, there is still an international perception that it’s bland and boring. Cornus doesn’t just challenge that idea, but alters it completely. Located in Belgravia, the restaurant successfully strikes the balance of being polished and non-pretentious, showcasing the beauty of British and European produce.
When it comes to eating out in London, Victoria isn’t the first place that comes to the minds of locals or tourists. The transport hub is home to a national railway station, coach station and a hidden gem, courtesy of Eccleston Yards. The area includes cobblestones, cafés and the recently opened Cornus.
Cornus is located in a discreet spot, which adds to its charm. After you’ve spotted the monochrome sign, go up the lift to a bright and airy dining room. Sleek and sophisticated, it boasts white tablecloths, walls and a bar. The muted tones range from beige chairs to black light fixtures, and floor-to-ceiling windows. While it can feel a little clinical, the staff counter that with a smiley service.
Despite coming on a weekday for lunch, the restaurant was busy. Our fellow diners ranged from a couple celebrating their anniversary to corporate clients discussing deals. This is the type of restaurant where you can hear yourself having a conversation. Translated: it puts the food firmly in the spotlight.
David O’Connor and Joe Mercer Nairne are behind Cornus. The pair previously created the Chelsea restaurant, Medlar. Executive Chef Gary Foulkes worked at the MICHELIN-Starred Angler and now leads the kitchen at Cornus. The restaurant derives its name from shrubs and small trees, which reflects the seasonally changing menu.
On our visit, we ordered the eight-course tasting menu, which starts at £155. The menu changes regularly, but includes signature dishes. Starters included the zesty Seabass Tartare with green apple, oyster cream and shiso, and truffle-tastic Phil Howards Langoustine with parmesan gnocchi, truffle emulsion and puree. Each dish came on a clean white plate, often with a pretty presentation.
The highlight was the Roast Pigeon Des Gourmets with apricot, cinnamon and chestnut puree. It was served with two pieces and a crispy texture and soft meat. The menu combined curious ingredients in a creative way. The Handpicked Devon Crab adds a hint of spice with wasabi, and the Earl Grey Cream comes with bergamot, green mandarin and quince.
We knew that the savoury dishes would be standout, but the desserts were just as dazzling. The pastry chef, Kelly Cullen, said: “I like to make desserts that give you feelings of nostalgia”. The Mille-feuille certainly does that, and elevates ingredients you would associate with childhood – caramelised apples and toffee apple sauce, anyone? Desserts also range from Apricot and Chamomile Mille-feuille to Chocolate Barquette.
The Wine Director, Melanie Battiston, is one hand to offer recommendations, and wine pairing options are available. The list also includes drinks from lesser-known grapes and regions, and Essex, Kent and Sussex.
In an age where Insta-worthy dishes are #trending, Cornus takes it back to basics. Marvel in its minimalism, and prepare to change your preconceptions. Now when I think of British produce, I’ll think of Cornus.
GO: Visit https://cornusrestaurant.co.uk for more information.