Raymond Blanc’s Oxford restaurant should be on your gastronomical map.
Raymond Blanc once said: “When you cook, it should be an act of love. To put a frozen bag in the microwave for your child is an act of hate.” The French chef has been sharing that passion and playfulness with the world, and nowhere is that devotion more evident than at Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons in Great Milton, Oxford.
Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons sits in the charming countryside hotel, Belmond Le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons. The venue is approximately one hour and twenty minutes from London. In 1984, the restaurant opened and was awarded (and maintained) two MICHELIN Stars. An impressive 34 of its chefs have gone on to win MICHELIN Stars for restaurants. The alumni include Heston Blumenthal, James Knight-Pacheco and Marco Pierre White.
Despite being born and brought up in Oxford, this was my first visit to Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons. It is the stuff of local legend, and is popular with an international crowd and celebrations. When you enter the grounds, it is like a baby Balmoral and wouldn’t look out of place on The Crown. Get there early so you can walk around the lavender garden and have a drink at the bar – preferably by the fireplace. The restaurant has different rooms with different vibes, from the exposed bricks to the classy conservatory.
Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons brings together British and French influences. We opted for the eight-course Les Saveurs du Manoir menu with a wine pairing. We are told we can have the swift or slower service, which includes an introduction to each dish. We go for the full narrative – and recommend that you should, too.
Le Saumon is one of Raymond’s signature dishes, and the salmon is served with a fragrant and floral elderflower and yuzu. L’Agnolotti draws inspiration from his mother’s cooking. The dish brings together ricotta, honey agnolotti, summer vegetables and basil.
La Fleur De Courgette showcases a Cornish lobster and courgette. The basil and lemongrass bisque is poured at the table, and adds a classy, creamy finish. Le Pigeon was the gourmet giant of the night. It was terrifically tender, and mixed together coco beans, duck liver and wild girolles.
L’Abricot was a sweet end to a sweet night and presented on a pretty plate. The dessert combined pan-fried apricot with almond cassoulet. And, save room for the cheese trolley.
Throughout Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons’ menu, all of the ingredients came alive. At the heart of the concept is Raymond’s love of foraging, seasonality and zero-waste. We challenge you to find a better-tasting tomato in the country, than the one in the La Tomate.
The service was some of the best we’ve ever experienced. The portions and pacing were perfect. Once our Scottish waitress knew we lived in Dubai, she shared how she would travel to the city as a child. Our sommelier had passion and personality and expanded our knowledge of wine.
A faultless, fine-dining experience. And, as cooking is an act of love for Raymond, it feels like he has opened up his heart and home. Fall in love with Le Manoir Aux Quat’Saisons.
GO: Visit www.belmond.com for more information.