The team behind Jamavar open a new restaurant in Mayfair.
Beyond its burgundy awning on a well-heeled Mayfair corner, Nipotina is a laid-back ode to simple Italian pleasures. Created by the same team behind the MICHELIN-starred restaurant, Jamavar, it has already become a dining destination.
The walls of the front dining room are dominated by large windows but beyond, the golden lighting, earthy colours and soft fabrics of its rear room recall a cosy domestic hearth. On the wintry evening of our dinner here, this setting and its friendly cast generated a reassuring warmth.
Nipotina is the latest restaurant opening from Samyukta Nair, who introduced London to the Jamavar restaurant family in late 2016. The restaurant later expanded to India, Qatar and the United Arab Emirates. The Nairs have been building Jamavar’s Indian empire since the first branch opened in Bengaluru in 2001.
The apple clearly doesn’t fall far from the tree. Samyukta has already built quite a collection in Mayfair. As well as Jamavar, the group runs a Chinese restaurant on Curzon Street named MiMi Mei Fair, Maddox Street’s Mumbai-inspired Bombay Bustle, and Koyn on Grosvenor Street, dedicated to Japan and Thailand.
And now for something completely different: traditional Italian dining. And as tradition dictates, Nipotina’s menu is split between cicchetti (nibbles for soaking up cocktails), antipasti (light starters), primi (hello carbohydrates), secondi (surf or turf), pizza (carbs reunion) and sides.
To pull this off, Nair has enlisted Turin’s Somaia Hammad as head chef. “Nipotina” is Italian for granddaughter, and Hammad’s menu is inspired by the food of her nonna’s kitchen. In other words, Nipotina promises a traditional Italian culinary tour, packaged in a postcode-appropriate, classy package.
This is a promise on which Nair and Hammad comfortably deliver. As befits the essence of Italian cuisine, we found Nipotina’s simplest dishes the most satisfying. On a table overflowing with Bruschetta di Porcini on sourdough, Polipo Brasato with salsa verde-speckled braised octopus, Costolette di Angello marinated lamb cutlets, and Trinagoli All Aragosta spiced tomato lobster pasta parcels, my fork just kept creeping back to a minimalist, buttery bowl of black truffle, tagliolini and Parmesan. It was listed on the kitchen’s seasonal Umbrian black truffle menu, which of course means it probably won’t be sticking around. The lesson: ask the kitchen which ingredients are in season, then try to order accordingly.
Another highlight was Grilled Sea Bass, “alla scapece”: roasted courgette flavoured with vinegar, mint and garlic. Moist, delicate and refreshing, this was another lesson in sophisticated simplicity. Meanwhile, the thin-crust, stone-baked pizza is predictably great, each option adding a small dollop of intrigue to a classic topping. Ours combined Parma ham and stracciatella with crushed pistachio, while sausage and sun-dried tomatoes with rainbow courgettes sounded equally tempting.
Naturally, there is Tiramisù. Confidently showcasing the classic interplay between bitter coffee and sweet mascarpone, the kitchen flexes its know-how with the innovative addition of gianduiotto. This hazelnut chocolate is typical of the Piedmont region and its inclusion breaks with tradition, but the risk pays off.
Speaking of taking risks, the cocktail list includes sage-infused tequila, mezcal and even a dash of Earl Grey in its clay pot negroni – the bar team appears to be on a longer geographical leash than the kitchen. The latter arrived tableside in a mild flourish of theatrics, poured directly into the glass from the pot itself, in which Nipotina preserves its pre-made signature drink. For the Italophiles, there’s a martini made with Parmigiano Reggiano-infused vodka, and we can only wish we’d ordered the tiramisu espresso martini: vodka, hazelnut, dark chocolate, biscuit and a coffee shot.
Heading out into the night, it isn’t long before we stroll past Jamavar – and I wouldn’t bet against this corner of London birthing another Nair restaurant before too much longer. And, based on dinner at Nipotina, that would be a very good thing.
GO: Visit https://nipotinaristorante.com for more information.