The world-renowned chef brings his MICHELIN magic to the capital.
London is brimming with celebrity chefs, from Gordon Ramsay and Jason Atherton to Heston Blumenthal and Michel Roux Jr. One name hoping to make their mark on the capital’s competitive dining scene is Akira Back. The internationally acclaimed chef has opened an outpost of Akira Back at Mandarin Oriental Mayfair, which looks set to be a popular dining destination.
Akira Back’s long-awaited London debut sees him operate the room service menu at the ultra-boutique Mandarin Oriental Mayfair, as well as a soon-to-launch ABar Rooftop afternoon tea and the omakase restaurant DOSA. Scheduled to open in September, the restaurant specialises in contemporary Korean cuisine, and the chef’s table accommodates 14 diners.
Akira Back’s signature restaurant combines Japanese and Korean food. The all-day dining restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and it showcases the chef’s greatest culinary hits. Born in Seoul and raised in the mountains of Aspen, chef Akira began his career shredding slopes on the snowboarding circuit. But life took a twist after he joined a local Japanese restaurant to make ends meet and the kitchen became his new thrill.
With over 20 restaurants across the globe, including exotic locals such as Dubai, Las Vegas, Marrakech and Singapore, London’s lucky to have its own branch of Akira Back. And, at the end of the year, he will move his attention back to the Middle East, opening the elevated concept AB Steak House and a branch of Akira Back in the Diplomatic Quarter of Riyadh, Saudi Arabia.
Diners visiting Akira Back London are in for a stunning welcome as they descend the spiral staircase and are met with the narrow dining room punctuated with woven wooden structures. The remarkable restaurant space oozes a sultry charm, melding pockets of darkness with intimate table configurations and subdued lighting that is accentuated by feng shui elements. The stairs represent the earth, the wooden vortex sculptures, the wind, a sushi bar topped with a lantern boasts a projection of water, and AB Bar boasts a ceiling installation resembling the crackling embers of a fire. The small bar area is an intimate affair replete with low-slung couches and a curated cocktail menu.
The menu at Akira Back London offers an appealing selection of salads, sushi and larger plates. All of the chef’s signature dishes are present and correct, showcasing Chef Akira’s Japanese cuisine imbued with a Korean essence, where premium ingredients are combined with seasonal produce to ensure dishes are characterised by nuanced flavours and intricate presentation.
It’s easy to be astounded by the ingenuity and sheer audacity of plates such as the Tuna Pizza (£26). Offering a crisp base covered in thin slices of tuna that camouflage the umami aioli and white truffle oil hidden secretively beneath. It’s genuinely revelatory stuff and a textural delight, making it easy to see how this fusion of East and West has become Chef Akira’s signature dish.
“When you come here, you have to eat the tuna pizza. I always tell the customers that if they don’t like it, don’t tell me, because the dish is my mother’s favourite. When you eat it, you’ll notice a painting underneath. That’s my mum’s painting, which makes the dish very meaningful for me” Akira recently told FACT.
Elsewhere, the Yellowtail Jalapeño (£28) sees the slithers of fish topped with jalapeño to provide an element of heat. The accompaniment of tomato salsa and yuzu soy provides a slight sourness which works in perfect contrast to the delicate fish. Similarly, the Salmon Tataki (£22) presents thin slices of salmon with a marinade of mustard su-miso and kizami wasabi.
Simple creations such as Dynamite Lobster (£46)are elevated when given the Akira Back treatment, serving the meaty crustacean in its shell with a fiery kick from the pickled shimeji, while the Perfect Storm Roll (£25) combines spicy tuna, prawn tempura and salmon belly aburi with chipotle mayo for its intricate presentation.
For our main course, we indulge in the beautiful lacquered Wagyu Short Rib (£48) which is tender, full of flavour, and served in a rich and robust braising juice alongside chunky root vegetables. The delicate, sustainably sourced Turbot (£52) swimming in sake butter and white asparagus is a lighter alternative. Yet, it’s the side order of Glazed Mushroom (£9) that provide one of the biggest surprises of the evening. Usually relegated to the side of the plate, the humble vegetable is accentuated with an addictive yuzu soy butter.
With a marvellous mixology selection, energetic staff who are eager to please and a stunning setting, Akira Back London offers a memorable meal in the heart of the city.
GO: Visit www.mandarinoriental.com for more information.