Don’t leave without trying Mary’s Cumbrian Beef Dirty Smash Burger.
At Cheers, everyone knows your name. At Mary’s, that could be the case. In the heart of Mayfair, London, celebrity chef Jason Atherton has opened the relaxed yet refined restaurant. The concept derives its name from one of his devoted diners and opened on the same site as his former MICHELIN-starred restaurant, Pollen Street Social. As we say goodbye to one icon, we say hello to a future one – and watch as it emerges from its sister restaurant’s shadows.
After being open for 13 years, Pollen Street Social closed. Despite being a spectacular success – it won a MICHELIN Star in six months, after all – Jason was ready for a new challenge. He made the bold decision to switch up the space, and open a string of restaurants across London (as well as Saudi Arabia and the UAE). In London, the concepts included Three Darlings, Row on 5 and Sael.
Jason’s restaurants are like a reliable friend, and have been there for me through the good and the glamorous times. I’ve celebrated my birthday at Little Social in London, enjoyed jazz music at City Social in Dubai, and eaten in the depths of the desert at Maraya Social in AlUla. So, when Mary’s opened, I was fascinated to find out more.
Mary’s has a charming origin story, and is based on a guest at Pollen Street Social. Jason recalls: “Mary was a professor from America who would always sit at the same spot at the counter and have a martini and a small steak. When we switched to a tasting menu-only, we never saw her again”.
While Mary’s has white tablecloths, there’s nothing pretentious about the place. It combines a friendliness with fine (and one unexpected fast) food. The timeless design is muted and minimalist with dark browns and bright whites, and a pop of colour from a neon burger sign. The main dining room includes floor to ceiling windows, stools for your bags, low hanging lights and artwork on the walls, from sketches to an Andy Warhol.
We visited Mary’s at lunchtime on a Friday, and the crowd ranged from a business meeting to a couple with a baby. The seats span square tables by a long leather banquette, to circular tables with wooden chairs by the window – perfect for people watching.
Chef Alex Parker is at the helm of the kitchen, and is behind the à la carte, burger, prix fixe, vegetarian and vegan menu. The à la carte menu spans starters, wood-fired grill, sides and desserts. The Duck Croquette fused fantastic flavours, from the crispy exterior to the silky and spicy satay sauce. Topped off with pickled cucumber, it offers terrific textures. The Beer Tempura Monkfish was a haute hug, and served with warm tartare sauce.
The staff are passionate about produce, and the main dishes showcase locally sourced fish and meat. The Cumbrian Flat Iron Steak made its way from the Lake District to London and boasted a rich taste. The Hereford Dry Aged Fillet on the Bone was grilled to perfection. All of the steaks are served with bone marrow herb butter, and blue cheese, bordelaise, chimichurri or green peppercorn sauce.
Mary’s Burger Counter may well be one of the best pre- or post-theatre options in London. Seats are walk-in, the service takes 20 minutes, and the menu only includes a beef burger and a fish burger. We ordered the signature dish, Mary’s Cumbrian Beef Dirty Smash Burger – and you should, too. Messy but marvellous, it was packed with pickles, chilli mayonnaise and crispy onions. Accompany it with the burger sauce, black garlic aioli, curry sauce, honey mustard sauce or truffle mayonnaise. But, be prepared to get your fingers slathered in sauce.
Desserts range from Black Forest Soft Serve to Miso Vanilla Crème Caramel, and a selection of cheeses. Drinks include beers, wines, mocktails and signature cocktails. There’s even Mary’s Martini, which comes with Belvedere Vodka and Regal Rogue Dry Vermouth.
While we didn’t spot Mary and her martini, we did spot a restaurant with class, charm and a whole lot of character. Mary’s in London: everyone should know its name.
GO: Visit www.maryslondon.co.uk for more information.