Located in Marylebone, the Italian eatery offers casual neighbourhood vibes.
We know you shouldn’t start a story at the end, but we just can’t wait to give The Italian Greyhound restaurant its just desserts. So here it goes: their tiramisu is one of the best we’ve ever tasted.
It’s not just that it’s as airy, light, and fluffy as the clouds upon which angels pluck their harps, such that even after the generous portions of the previous courses, the plate was swiftly picked clean. It also contains a not-so-secret ingredient: pistachios. Mixed into the mascarpone, they lend it a greeny-blue hue; crumbled over the top, they add a satisfying crunch to the otherwise creamy mouthfeel.
The founders of The Italian Greyhound, who revamped and rebranded it in 2021 (it used to be called Bernardi’s, after the two brothers who co-owned it with Barry Hirst), say they are aiming for a “neighbourhood restaurant” feel. Nothing is fancy-schmancy; the prices are surprisingly low for the quality and quantity of food; the wooden floors and bare walls mean that even when half-full, as it was when we arrived (it soon filled up), there’s a happy hubbub of voices.
It’s a relaxed place to chat and linger over a cocktail before dinner. And, given its location just a block north of Marble Arch, it’s ideal for restoring body and soul after a hectic day’s shopping on Oxford Street.
Now let’s rewind: what of the earlier courses? For a starter, we chose a Pumpkin and Gorgonzola Arancini, which had the crunchiest exterior; and Tiger Prawns in a delicious, rich, fresh tomato sauce with grilled focaccia.
For a main course, we ordered the Grilled Sea Bass on a bed of courgette peto, with cannellini beans that were sadly much cooler than the rest of the dish. All perfectly good, if not exceptional. It came with a rainbow chard that was cooked just so, and we added a side dish of potato fritti – effectively roast potatoes, but fried so that the exterior is even crunchier than usual without the insides getting too mushy.
The pasta dish was the bigger hit. This was Paccheri with lamb ragu, given terrific richness and depth by the addition of anchovies, and topped with a sage pangrattato. After the large starters, we were no longer that hungry, but there was no question of possibly leaving a scrap of it on the plate. Top marks, too, for the salad we ordered to go with it. It would win any “best dressed” award.
We paired the pasta, as recommended by the waitress, with a Tuscan Chianti Classico, somewhat surprisingly priced at £67 a bottle – almost twice the cost of the cheapest bottle on the menu.
We say surprisingly because Chianti is usually fine, but not exceptional. Fun fact: Hannibal Lecter in The Silence of the Lambs movie may have had his friend’s liver with fava beans and a nice Chianti, but that’s only because the filmmakers felt no American viewer would have heard of the truly fine Italian wine that in the original novel he chose for that special occasion. (That would be Amarone, in case you’re wondering.) But this easy drinking yet complex Chianti more than justified the higher price.
As for the cocktails, the Greyhound Paloma was adequate, but the Kyoto Negroni with yuzu sake and lemon was perfection. And then that heavenly Pistachio Tiramisu to finish.
The fact that we spent nearly three hours here shows how fun, comfortable, and easygoing it is. It’s not fine dining – no posh restaurant would seat diners without first offering to stow their coats and bags in the cloakroom – but then it’s not pretending to be. You wouldn’t cross London just to eat here, perhaps; but if you find yourself in the area, The Italian Greyhound is a great bet.
GO: Visit www.theitaliangreyhound.co.uk for more information.